Of the later family holidays, we know that they went to Arnside on the Westmorland coast, because Mary mentions in her Introduction that the family party was joined on "various occasions" at "Arnside and other places" by Miss Margaret Harrison. [1]
We know of three visits (in 1871, 1875 and 1877) to Southport on the Lancashire coast. Always popular for the sea bathing, it was developed from the 1840s as a refined resort – it's said that Haussmann's boulevards were inspired by the young exile Louis Napoleon's stay in Southport in 1838 – and it had sandy beaches and a famous pleasure pier built of iron.
When 17 year old Ellen was in Southport in 1871 struggling with poor little Harry's illness, her brother Alfred was on a walking tour of Germany and Austria. He went in a party of three – I think his elder brother John was one of them, having just emerged from Cambridge as Senior Wrangler. It was the year after the Franco-Prussian War.
Fortunately, a relative who had been at school in Germany and had strong German sympathies was a member of our party of three [2]
wrote Alfred. This will have been one of their Dewhurst cousins, Bonny's sons.
Bonny wanted his sons to have a scientific education and, as practical training in science and technology was better abroad, he sent Algernon and Lionel to Germany. I think Algernon is the most likely candidate for this trip. He matriculated at London University in 1867, studied chemistry first under Prof. Fehlinge at the Stuttgart Polytechnic School and then under Hoffmann at the Laboratory of the University of Berlin. [3] In 1870 he went home to the family business in Skipton and in 1874 he and Cecil Slingsby made the first traverse of the Hurrungane range of mountains, some 200 miles NNW of Oslo.
It was a five week walking tour and it cost them £26 each. They covered 20 miles before breakfast, 30 to 40 miles a day. They spent one night on a mountain in a thunderstorm. Katharine Chorley's description of Alfred's holidays [4] – disappearing off into the hills with a rucksack, getting off the beaten track and having no fixed plans – shows that the tour of 1871 gave him the pattern for his ideal holiday for the rest of his life.
In 1875 Alice's sister-in-law Ellen Tubbs had taken the younger children to Southport when Ellen fell fatally ill with scarlet fever. In 1877, after the deaths of Ellen and Harry, we know that Mary was in charge of the party when she escorted her mother and some of her siblings to Southport – May, the youngest, was by then approaching 13. It seems very likely that the young ones had been taken there, or to other seaside resorts, regularly over the previous ten years.
John and Alice also took holidays abroad together. I think they probably had children with them, but it isn't entirely clear, and we don't know when they went. All we have is this paragraph from their daughter Mary's Introduction:
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| Bellagio promontory, Lake Como |
I now come to the last subject I propose to treat with, viz., Holiday trips, notably enjoyable visits to Switzerland, Italy and Austria. Those experiences meant much to our parents and afforded striking illustration of their fine characteristic qualities. We know well how they delighted in the beauty and grandeur of Nature and revelled in the happy freedom of holiday.
We picture to ourselves Father skipping with joy down the path of Bellagio and remember Mother's determination to face the risk of going up to the rock at Schaffhausen when the river was in flood, and the deep snow did not deter her from being carried over the Grimsell Pass. These and many others are events not to be forgotten. [5]
They went to Norway, which was a country that quite a few of the Hopkinsons and their relations already knew well, in June 1881. They probably went with Gertrude and May; the others were at home, as we can see from the stern letter that Charles wrote to his mother on 26 June
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| Charles Hopkinson |
I am extremely obliged to you for your letter, but am also exceedingly disappointed with it and Father's telegram. You have abandoned my route as being too severe work and you straightway go and drive further in less time and, instead of taking your tour leisurely and comfortably, you rush about from place to place in order to be home a week earlier than is requisite, advisable or desirable. It is very shocking – you deprive yourselves of the many letters that we have written on the reasonable supposition that would go along decently and in order, and not in this wild hurry from place to place. Why should you do so? I cannot find a reason, for you ought not to be homesick with four of you together and, as for business here, Father can do nought for Carnforth till the Board Meeting of Union Place …
From Chatterley Mr Wain reports in a commonplace way. There is no motive for this haste. Mary will hardly have the house ready for you and will certainly not have time to spring clean her lungs by a weekend in the country as we had intended before your arrival. Edward is helping me efficiently at the Works, so I am all right. Albert has his ordinary life for another fortnight. Lily wants to be at home to greet you and cannot if you return next Tuesday week …
Now for home news. The Spring Cleaning is still in process. I have escaped three days for I went to Newcastle on Wednesday night, I did my work quite satisfactorily with Mr Maling and saved more than my expenses by my eloquence … I hope this may be in time to catch and influence you and remain
Your very affectionate son
Charles Hopkinson [6]
Norway had become familiar territory to the family. Cecil Slingsby first went there in 1872 when he was 23 years old. It determined his life as a mountaineer, as his obituarists H. Tönsberg and E. Sundt explained in the Alpine Journal [7]
In 1872 a strong young Englishman, 23 years of age, standing on the Sognefjeld and gazing at the Horungtinder, became lost in the sight. "Undoubtedly," he afterwards wrote, "the finest mountain range in Norway. I shall never, as long as I live, forget my first view of Skagastölstind, the grandest European mountain north of the Alps. Our guide told us that it was the highest mountain in Norway, that it had not yet be ascended, and that no doubt this was impracticable. Can it be wondered that I determined, if possible, to make the first ascent?"
And he carried his cousins with him. We know, for example, from Cecil's writings that in 1879 Charles Hopkinson had made an attempt with friends on the Stor Trolltind, the highest point on the Trolltindane ridge.
Norway was all the more attractive for Hopkinson holidays because John Hopkinson's brother-in-law Henry Overton Wills went there for the trout and salmon fishing, and he bought the Aak estate in the Romsdal valley after his wife Alice died. He spent his summers there and gave a warm welcome to visitors.
Romsdalen was, and is, a famously beautiful part of Norway and a centre for climbing. The Hotel Aak in Romsdalen (one of Norway's first tourist hotels and still thriving) had been Cecil Slingsby's base for climbing Store Skagastølstind in 1876. It was supposed to be unclimbable and Cecil's solo ascent to the summit was a turning-point for mountaineers – that's why he is known as the Father of Norwegian Mountaineering and why this year, in July and August 2026, there are celebrations planned in Norway for the 150th anniversary of this famous climb. (Of course, as in Switzerland, there are stories of the locals climbing the peaks before the sport arrived …)
Cecil Slingsby loved Norway and his writings give us a vivid picture of the sort of holiday that the Hopkinson brothers enjoyed. His book Norway, The Northern Playground was first published in 1904, can be read online and is still in print. It is a lyrical account of the people, landscape and wildlife of Norway, written with great enjoyment and affection, and with plenty of advice for future visitors. On arriving at a sæter – the summer grazing – in the hope of getting something to eat
one should take off one's hat and bow to the girl there as to a princess. She may keep you waiting for an hour until she has finished milking, before she can attend to your wants, but that is as it should be, and lessons on patience are very wholesome. When at last she provides a meal for you, the least you can do for her is to ask her to share some small portion of the luxuries which you are sure to have with you, and it is desirable to let her know that you are aware that she is conferring a favour upon you. If you can give her some little trinket, in addition to the small payment which goes to the farmer in the valley below, it will be much treasured. I have found coloured pictures, pins, and needles to be well appreciated.
In his obituary of Charles Hopkinson in the Alpine Journal, Cecil Slingsby told the story of the time they had had to take refuge in a hole amongst tumbled-down rocks, on stones of "aggressive angularity".
All through the black hours of night Charley was the very personification of cheerfulness. It was the same too a few weeks later, when the three of us were assailed by a fierce gale … at the top of the steep snowfilled trap dyke …
This was during their 1885 expedition. A new sheet of the Amtskarter – Norway's O.S maps – had been issued in 1884 and it seemed to show a large snow-field in Western Norway that mountaineers had not known was there. The snow-field was about 17 miles long and 4 to 6 miles broad and lay between Førde and Nordfjord. On today's maps, it's perhaps best found by looking out for Ålfotbreen. Ålfotbreen and Gjegnalundsbreen, its neighbouring glacier, (breen means glacier) are designated
Landscape Protection areas.
So Cecil and Charley decided to make an exploratory tour. They set off in September 1885, with Lars Janssen (who had made two capital expeditions with Cecil the year before and could tell thrilling stories of his adventures fishing at the Lofoten Islands) as guide, porter and companion, with the plan of exploring and trying to climb some peaks that nobody yet had climbed. Then they would go north to Romsdal to see if they could climb a peak Cecil had named Mjölnir, after the god Thor's war hammer.
In Cecil's account in Northern Playground he describes the bracing pure air, woody slopes where honeysuckle filled the air with fragrance, bear tracks, tarns unknown to the Amtskarter surveyors, a little lake of rich turquoise blue set in vivid grass and dark pine forest, pushing their way for hours through rocks, screes, streams and copses. He describes making their way up the valley of the river Skjerdalselva and being overtaken by a little lad who had come up from a farm an hour behind them, with the breathless news that they should come back for fear of bears. They showed him their axes, but he didn't think that would do. Three bears had been seen the day before near the tarn that lay just ahead, and the men had hidden bear traps on the usual goat tracks on each side of the tarn – rifles and guns heavily loaded with bullets and old nails, and with strings attached to the triggers. So instead, the boy rowed them over the tarn on a leaky boat. "The blue water was studded with huge rocks greened over by moss, fern, and birch." To the east there were thickly wooded slopes. To the west an enormous precipice here and there crowned with snow. To the south an enormous amphitheatre of rocks and snow rose to the jagged mountains beyond. They plodded on up the valley until they reached the snowline. There they found "a small lake of deepest blue flecked with an icy flotilla from the glacier flowing into it". They crossed crevasses, went through deep snow, waded through streams, cut steps across a glacier.
They travelled north to Romsdalen where they stayed with Henry Overton Wills. He drove them up to Nedre Dale, the nearest farm to the peak they wanted to climb. They stayed with farmer Ivar Olsen Dale and his family in their house on a sunny knoll. It was clean and cosy, and the rooms were scented with sprays of juniper. The family were very interested in the preparations and thought the axes and rope were surely for fishing – everyone there was thinking only of the herring, which had just been in the fjord.
There was a beautiful valley of rich colouring and gentle pastoral beauty, and beyond lay the fantastic aiguilles, savage glens and dark precipices of the mountains. Cecil describes dewy meadows, sparkling trout streams, glorious views, rock-climbing to the blunt arête with a glacier on either side, narrow chimneys, glorious climbing to a grim col in a vicious arête. Back at the farm, an admiring audience gathered around Lars as he modestly told the tale of their adventures. Ivar Olsen Dale was disappointed that they drove back to Aak that evening, as he wanted to see more of them – and by the time Cecil and Charley read their account of their expedition to the Alpine Club on 10 April 1888 Charley had been back to visit him already. (Their joint paper appeared in the August 1889 edition of the Alpine Journal: 'The ascent of Mjölnir and the exploration of the Ghegnalund [Gjegnalundsbreen] glaciers in Norway').
This was the Hopkinson brothers' idea of a good holiday. We know of some of their climbing companions – they included Wilberforce Newton Tribe (1855-1928) who married their sister Lily in 1888, and Hermann Woolley (1846-1920) who used to sit next to John Hopkinson in lectures at Owens College.
John, Alfred, Charles and Edward could take the weeks from their work needed to go on these expeditions. Albert, the youngest, had climbed with them from boyhood, his obituary in the Alpine Journal recording that
Albert was a very agile and bold climber, and already as a boy he was put in the lead by his brothers upon new and difficult rock ascents, notably upon Dow Crag.
but he became a doctor in general practice and his work left little time for climbing. As for the girls – we know that Cecil Slingsby was a great advocate for women climbers and that young John's daughters climbed – but we don't know what the daughters of John and Alice did in their holidays.
Notes
[1] John and Alice Hopkinson 1824-1910 (1948) ed. Mary Hopkinson and her niece Lady Ewing, with a Preface by Sir Gerald Hurst, K.C., p. XXX
[2] Sir Alfred Hopkinson, K.C., LL.D., Penultima (1930) pub. Martin Hopkinson Ltd, p. 24
[3] Kenneth C Jackson, The Dewhursts of Skipton: a dynasty of cotton masters, 1789 to 1897, Yorkshire Archaeological Journal 75 (2003), p. 194
[4] Katharine Chorley, Manchester Made Them, pub Faber & Faber Ltd (1950), p. 218-9
[5] John and Alice Hopkinson 1824-1910, p. XXXI
[6] ibid., p. 77